July 19, 20, 21, 22, 23, 24
Teachers often tell children in US Schools that we should protect the rain forest. Students are show pictures of the trees and animals in the Amazon jungle or other exotic places. Probably not often mentioned is that within the US Forest Service system is a beautiful tropical rain forest. El Yunque is a green lush haven nestled in the eastern part of Puerto Rico. I had no idea that this tropical forest is managed by the US forest service. Just part of a litany of things that I did not know about the county only a few hours flight away. Puerto Ricans are US citizens with representation in the US congress. Their young people serve in the US military but cannot vote in presidential elections. My ignorance goes on. I am so pleased that I had a conference that brought me to this wonderful place followed by a short family vacation on the island.
We spent four days in a bed and breakfast where the back of the property joined the edge of the protected area called the Caribbean National Forest. It is one thing to read in a textbook about the mystical place called the “rain forest” with dense vegetation and unusual creatures but another thing entirely to sleep with the sounds and smells drifting from only twenty feet away into the window of your bedroom. This was our great fortune on our family in July 2007 when we stayed in the Rainforest Inn. This lovely Bed and Breakfast is aptly named for its proximity to this arboreal setting.
The Inn has two apartments but even with other guests on the property it is secluded. Only 45 minutes from San Juan you drive off the highway and climb up and up the mountain. After entering a gated small community you arrive at this hidden treasure at the lush edge of El Yunque. This is an eco-lodge with no air conditioning and a cistern that collects rain sending it directly to your shower. My favorite part of the eco-lodge experience was bathing in water that fell only hours before.
Beginning an hour or so before dusk a great treat happens, the orchestra of the coqui frogs begins. At first there are only a few tuning up their instruments. Some are bold and others seem shy. As the light wanes many others join the string section, then the tympani can be heard, and the occasional blaring of the tubas. The sound gets louder and louder until it seems like the whole mountain is vibrating. One of the benefits of no air conditions it that you sleep with the windows open with a front row seat to this symphony.
We always travel with a sound machine to drown out the noises in hotels of street traffic with horns honking, heavy doors slamming late at night and the proverbial ice machine right next to your room. One of the options on this devise is the sound of the rain forest. As a joke my husband turned it on switched it to that setting and sure enough it was the coci frogs. I always thought that was some marketing ploy to sell these things. Now when we turn it on anywhere in the country we will be reminded of the “real thing” and our nights with the coci frogs outside our window.
Our hosts Laurie and Bill served a lovely breakfast each morning on our private patio overlooking the mist covered mountain forest. The menus were delightful with mango preserve stuffed French toast, huevos rancheros, and ginger pancakes all accompanied by fresh guava and mangoes.
As pampered Americans living in the suburbs and addicted to air conditioning living without it for four days was a bit of a challenge as the July temperatures climbed into the high 80’s and low 90’s. It would have been much more comfortable for our hikes and sightseeing if we had made the trip in the late fall or early spring. However, the nights were cooler and the sleeping comfortable. We had to bring in our own water for drinking since only cistern water was available. We had a refrigerator and microwave and brought in local goodies to enjoy small meals on the grounds.
The time there flew by too quickly. I know I will find a reason to return.
You are out of control!
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